Sunday, March 1, 2015

Trip to Peru (January and February 2015) - (Part II)

This is Part II of the blog for Trip to Peru.


Cusco and Machu Picchu
Machu Picchu from the vista point before the entrance
The highlight of our trip to Peru was obviously Machu Picchu, the place that is so famous that people automatically think of this place when they hear someone is going to Peru and express their envy. It was beautiful and its architecture was impressive, particularly for the fact that it was built on top of a mountain, 2,430 m high. But, I realized that the Inca Empire was not as old as it appeared or as I was led to believe it was. It was built in the 15th century, the medieval times. Should we be impressed by the somewhat crude architecture built during the medieval times while there are architectures and structures like the Pyramids of Giza, Roman amphitheaters, Greek ruins, all of which were built before Christ? What about the Ottoman Empire's gigantic structures built long time ago...?

At any way, the reality made me adjust my expectation, leading to disappointments, but at least I came to realize why Machu Picchu might have become so sensational as a tourist destination. I think it is because of the surroundings in the midst of which Machu Picchu is located. The surroundings were breath-taking. It was too bad that I did not have the wide angle lense to use and there was limitation for what I could take, but some photos that I took will show how beautiful the surroundings were.


I did not get to do the Inka Trail nor hike up to Wayna Picchu, the summit of Huayana Picchu, or to the summit of Machu Picchu Mountain, for various reasons, but I did not feel that I missed a lot. I walked part of the Inca trail, including a narrow tunnel through a rock. I could not imagine how people would have transported their kings or Incas on the narrow trails. Hmmmm...
 Surrounding mountains seen from Machu Picchu


The Sun Temple

At Eagle Temple

Another view on the way down from the entrance

On the way down from Machu Picchu

After the walk-down

Museum that many people do not even know exists

After the visit to Machu Picchu before leaving...

The trip course to Machu Picchu was a little complex. Part of the rail ways was destroyed by a flood and we had to take a train from Ollataytambo to Machu Picchu station. From there, we took a bus to go up to the entrance. In the return trip, we decided to walk down, rather than taking the bus, and we were glad that we chose to walk. At the feet of the mountain, we found the site museum where I was able to see a photo of Machu Picchu in 1912, one year after it was discovered by a Yale professor Hiram Bingham thanks to the help of a boy, called Paulito. We also had a quick visit to a botanical garden next to the museum. Because we decided to walk down, we were also able to enjoy the beautiful scenery a lot more fully than sitting in the bus. The river was full and the current was rapid. It sounded like it was warning people not to destroy the nature any more.
Machu Picchu in 1912, one year after the discovery


Cusco has its own attractions, such as Plaza de Armas, Qoricancha (Temple of the Sun with the Court of Gold), Cathedral, Inka Museum, Sacsayhuaman, another ruin with gigantic stones, Quenqo, a mummy-making site, Tambomachay, a never-ending spring. Cusco is located at 3,400m high. A sudden ascent to this height from the sea level created a little dizziness and light headache. We were able to sustain the altitude sickness by drinking coca tea and moving slowly. The following day, we toured to Sacred Vally where several Inca Empire sites can be found. We visited Ollantaytambo, Pisaq, including Pisaq Market.
At a restaurant looking over Plaza de Armas on a rainy day

Ollantaytambo


Alpaca, different from Llama, Vicuna, Guanaco

Sacsayhuaman

Selfie with Cusco in the background

At the Pisaq Market
Puno and Lake Titicaca
After we finished the 4-week Spanish course in Lima, we purchased two tour programs back to back. One was a tour from Lima to Cusco and to Puno. The other one was from Puno to Colca Canyon and to Arequipa. There was no company that covers the entire journey.

St. Peter's Church at Andahuaylillas


A mountain scene from a restaurant over lunch

A torino idol at Pukara

Puno Cathedral on a rainy day
We had to leave Cusco early in the morning and took a bus, Inka Express, to travel to Puno. It would have taken approximately six hours to Puno if we had gone there direct, but the bus stopped over at several places on the way. We visited a St. Peter's church located in Andahuaylillas, an archaelogical site in Raqchi, a museum in Pukara.

What was quite interesting to me was Raqchi because the site was a temple for the God Supreme, the only one existing during the Inka time. All other temples were built for many other gods, such as Puma, Eagle, Snake, Sun, Moon, Stars etc., but this one is the only site for the Creator God. Isn't it interesting? Where did they get the idea of the Creator? The tour guide was talking about their belief in three phases of life that circles from puma, the earthy life, to snake, the wisdom left by the elderly people, and to eagle, a messenger of spirit to another life. They refer these three phases to the present, the past and the future.
Raqchi Site

The lunch at a buffet restaurant by the river was a memorable experience. A musician was playing Peruvian music lonely and a painter was working on his art pieces in the garden.

Puno is a city with approximately 150,000 people in population, by the Lake Titicaca, meaning 'grey puma.' This lake is shared by Peru at 60% and Bolivia at 40%. The tour guide said that Bolivia claims the other way around. Anyway, the lake is the world's second highest navigable lake at 3,800 m high. after one in Venezuela. The lake is 8,300 square km and twice as big as Puerto Rico, the tour guide claimed. The deepest point is 300 meter.
Lake Titicaca Map

Our hotel was located right next to the cathedral and people were still performing their brass band musics as part of a festival, nationwide famous, to celebrate a virgin. It was raining but people were still performing. This performance continued the following day with parades attended by a lot of young girls. I suppose they represent the virginity.

The following day, we took a speed boat and visited two islands. The first one was Taquile Island. In this island, 3,000 inhabitants are living, still keeping their long traditions. This island has no crime and no police. They do not have divorce either because a man and a woman live together for a few years to try out their marriage before they actually get married. Males and femals wear caps and gowns that indicate if they are single or married. What was interesting was that males have to learn how to knit and weave to get married. It was common that males do the hand-knitting at the corner of the plaza. They did not have the electricity until recently they installed solar panels to enjoy even DirecTV.
On the way to the Taquile Plaza
At the Taquile Plaza
Entrance into the Plaza
Red and White means that he is single, knitting
He is not only married but an authority

Woman also covers her hair
Traditional weaving frame 
After our visit to Taquile, we visited a few floating islands where the Uros people are living. These floating islands are made of reeds and reed roots. Normally it takes about a year to build one island and it lasts 25-30 years. The Uros have been living on the lake, literally, since the pre-Inca Empire. The Uros Community, as they are called, comprises 42-80 islands (two statistics are different) and is administratively under the City of Puno, but with autonomy. Each island has 3-5 families, totaling 10-15 people. Each island has a leader, usually taking turns and comprise extended families. The island we visited had 3 families of 15 people. All men were out for fishing and one woman and three girls greeted us. They showed us how to make the floating island and also sang songs in several languages. They took us out on the so-called Mercedez-Benz version of their boat, charging us 10 Peruvian Soles, $3.30, after the tour. The girls also entertained us with songs and let us taste the reed, which they eat regularly as snack. They had only one cat, but others raise dogs and chickens also. The islands are tiny, but they have their houses, their gardens, their storage rooms and backyards. They have to get on a boat if they need to go to a washroom or a restroom. Hmmmm... how do they handle the emergency situation...?
8 men can make this boat in one day, but it lasts for 8 months
Almost entire island in this photo
The boat made of reeds with the beautiful background
This 7-year old girl sang in 7 languages
Colca Canyon
Early in the morning, we were picked up by another tour company. There were only four people, along with another American young missionary couple who are living in Cusco and us. The tour guide explained to us that after four hours of traveling, we will change the vehicle to a regular bus at Patahuasi, a crossroad where they switched the passenger traveling to different directions.

On the way, we saw a few flamingos, not a big deal after we saw hundreds, if not thousands, of flamingos in Africa, and stopped over at a high point of 4,911 m high where we could see eight volcanoes in the area. All of them were over 5,500 up to 6,200 or so. All snow-capped. It was one of the highest points for a car to pass.

Volcan Ampato at 6,288m, the tallest in the area

On the first day we arrived in Chivay, a small town inside the Colca Canyon, we were taken to a hot spring, called Calera Hot Springs. We were given approximately 90 minutes to enjoy the warm mineral water that smelled strong sulfur. Our tired body needed it. People were ziplining over the canyon while we were dipping our body in the pool.
Dipping into the mineral-rich hot springs
The following day, we had to start early to go up to Cruz del Condor, an observation point to spot the Peruvian condors that are rising and gliding in the Colca Canyon. El Condor Pasa was composed with the inspiration of the gliding condors here. They are part of the vulture family, really disappointing fact that I got to know, and their wing spans as wide as 3.2 meters. They become adults after 2 years of care and move out to be independent. For this reason, the condors hatch their eggs only every 3 years. After a lot of waiting, I was able to spot 3 condors in different angles. Only with iPhone, my photo-taking was somewhat limited, but it was enough to hum the song, El Condor Pasa, and remember the moment that we enjoyed the song so much during our college times.



The Cross at Condor Cross
Humming El Condor Pasa
Adult condor gliding into the canyon
Adult condor soaring into the sky
On the way there, we stopped over at town where young girls were dancing and I took a photo with an eagle on my arm. Also, on the way back, we stopped over a few other places, like a church and valley vista points.
With an eagle on my arm in early morning


Young girls dancing with colorful skirts
A selfie at a small town

An old church beautifully  harmonized with the cloud

A couple photo at a visa point

Arequipa
We went to Arequipa, the second largest city in Peru (1,000,000 people) is known to be 'The White City' because the white color of the old buildings. We stopped by the Plaza de Armas and walked around romantic streets where cute restaurants were located. Ah... I tried their flavor, cheese ice cream. Well... I could not tell much difference, but I tasted it.



We took a flight from Arequipa to Lima where we stayed another night. We flew Peruvian Air and thoroughly enjoyed it. When we purchased the tour programs, the travel agent, Travel Max (a good one that I can recommend to anyone interested in traveling to Peru) was cautioning us that the airline could cancel the flight. After we experienced African flights, particularly Kenya Airways and Ethiopian Airlines, Peruvian Air was just fine.

After one night stay in Lima, we began our long journey back to Rwanda: From Lima to Quito, first. From Quito to Amsterdam. One night stay. Then, from Amsterdam to Kigali. Well, we are now used to long flights, but the worse part was that I had to fly out via a red-eye flight on the day we arrived in Kigali. That twist, combined with Ethiopian flights, caused me to get sick. But, after all, we thoroughly enjoyed our trip to Peru, with deep gratitude to the Lord who has enabled us to. We praise you, Lord! - Jeffrey

Trip to Peru (January and February 2015)...(Part I)

In continuation of the Spanish study, Kristin and I traveled to Peru after four weeks in Ecuador.

In total, we stayed in Peru for five weeks. During this period, we experienced a lot, but the noteworthy were Studying Spanish, Lima, Nasca Lines, Cusco and Machu Picchu, Puno and Lake Titicaca, Colca Canyon and Arequipa. Due to length, I am posting this travel log in two parts.

Studying Spanish
The primary purpose of the trip was to study Spanish. We learned that Peruanos speak the high class Spanish. We studied in group at Peruwayna located in Miraflores, Lima's famous tourist town. It provided us with convenient access to many attractions and restaurants, but we had to bear a lot of noise, even at night, and the crowd.


The class of the third week... Miguel, Mike from Texas, Kristin, Jeffrey, Andrew from Australia and Curt from Pennsylvania
The class of the first week... Jeffrey, Katie from Finland, Miguel, Mike from Texas, Egzi from Australia and Kristin



The school operated a little differently from Amauta in Cuenca. At Amauta, each teacher had flexibility in choosing his or her own teaching methodology and materials. Peruwayna, however, had printed books for each level of proficiency. Also, we were able to start the class without having to be tested because we were only students in our class, but at Peruwayna, we had to take a written test on line and an oral test on the first day. In Cuenca, we were able to stay with one teach for all four weeks without any other students, but in Lima, we had different students each week, except Michael who was a retiree from Texas and stayed in the class for all four weeks together with us.

Overall, I thoroughly enjoyed the learning at Peruwayna. It provided us with excellent printed books and the teacher, Miguel, was great with clear and correct pronunciation. He was handsome, intelligent and pleasant. He married to a German lady, Ute, and they have one little boy, Gustavo. Other than Mike and a few others, we were the oldest student among 30 some students who were learning Spanish at Peruwayna. I felt that my Spanish improved significantly while I was studying in Lima. so I am grateful. Miguel taught and showed us how to continue studying Spanish using materials that are available on line. That was also very helpful.

Lima
Church of Lima at Night
Lima is the capital city of Peru. It has a population of over 10 million in a country that has a total population of only 30 million. Peru is a country of a pretty good size geographically, but more than 50% of the land is Amazon jungle. Also, it has the Andes Mountains a large part of which is not inhabitable and usable. Moreover, along the long coastal lines, most of the land is barren dessert. It is one of the reasons for the capital city Lima to have the one third of the nation's population.

World Bank projects that Peru will be the largest economy in South America by 2025. Its projection is based on various factors, such as steady growths in tourism, its strongest attraction and minerals. Many still question its viability, but we will see what happens. For this reason, Lima's cost of living was far higher than that of Cuenca, Ecuador.

Lima is proud of its culture, particularly foods. Peruanos never want to accept any food culture of mediocrity. It could be bad in a sense that they cannot experience diverse food cultures of the world. They claim the ownership to the famous Ceviche.

Lima is located at the sea shore, looking over the Pacific Ocean. Miraflores has a shopping mall developed at a section of the cliff facing the ocean, namely Larcomar. There are dozens of restaurants where you can enjoy the sea breeze and the sunset, and many stores where you can buy all kinds of brands.

Sunset at Miraflores
Larcomar at Miraflores
Larcomar is part of Lima's El Malecon, a boardwalk on the cliffs which stretch a few kilometers along the coast. It attracts families, lovers, youth, as well as tourists. As you walk along the boardwalk, you can see low- and high-rise condominium buildings that are designed to maximize the ocean view for their residents. The walk to the Malecon was one of the routines for us in the late afternoon or early evening. We were able to enjoy Lima's beautiful sunsets several times. The last day, we were at Parque de Amor where you can find a statue of a lover couple. It looked romantic enough for many couples to find and affirm their love, in the backdrop of beautiful sunsets.
Statue of Kissing Couple at Parque de Amor
A couple at Parque de Amor at sunset
We took a half-day city tour and visited several places, such as Church of San Francisco and its Catacomb, Government Palace, Plaze de Armas, Huaca Pucllaha, an archaeological site for the Inca culture, a museum. We wanted to visit the so-called the largest water park complex in the world, but it was temporarily closed for renovation. Too bad.
Pre-colombian Cultures of Peru 
Lima City Hall
Government Palace
Church of San Francisco and Catacombs
We visited several places whenever we found time, such as Inka markets, street exhibition of arts, Kennedy Park where hundreds of cats interact with visitors, Mercado Surquillo. Of course, we tasted the famous Pisco Sour, an alcoholic drink made of pisco grapes. It was quite strong and we considered one trial enough. Also, we ate the famous Peruvian ceviche, basically raw fish with some seasoning and vegetables. It was okay, but was not as impressed as I have been by Aroz con mariscos which we both ate and enjoyed a lot in Peru as well as in Ecuador.
People with cats. The city takes care of these cats.
Pisco Sour
One of the Inca Market Stores
Street Exhibition of Art Paintings
Cuy Arts and Crafts
Mercado Surquillo
We also visited Barranco District, known to be Lima's Bohemian district filled with colonial style buildings and architecture. It was beautiful. We found ourselves liking colonial style over modern architecture. We attended a church started by an American missionary and another Korean church that was established 25 years ago. It was quite interesting to see so many Koreans, 150 or so, in one place, in a place like Lima. But I was thinking that people might have felt the same when they visited a Korean church in Kigali, Rwanda.

An indigenous woman carrying a baby

When you travel, you get to meet a lot of people. We met with a couple of Korean missionaries who are ministering to the people of Peru. Samuel Jaeyoung Kim was one and Missionary Choi was another. We rejoiced with each other over what God has been doing through our lives.

Next to me are Missionary Choi and Missionary Kim

It is joyous to meet new people, but the joy multiplies when you get to meet old friends. We bumped into Kristin's college friend couple from Baltimore in Lima, unexpectedly. They came to see Machu Picchu and Nasca Lines. After their trip to Machu Picchu, we found time to meet at Larcomar. It was a joyous and sweet reunion.


Nasca Lines
One of the places that I really wanted to visit was Nasca Lines. Prior to the Inca Empire, there were Nasca people who built the so-called Nasca lines. Nasca lines are more than 100 shapes and forms that exist on the high plateaus around a city called Nasca. Out of them, 70 or so take the forms of animals, such as eagle, monkey, parrot, humming bird, heron, whale etc. in various sizes. The largest one spans approximately 180 meters in width.
Art of the Nasca Lines
The most mysterious one, which still puzzles me, is an astronaut drawing on the side of an entire mountain. Astronaut in the 12th century? How did they imagine something like it... had they not actually seen one? Does that mean there are astronauts in the universe and they actually visited the earth several hundred years ago...? If so, why? How did they interact with the people on earth then? Why did they leave? Or... what? I later found out that the alien theory was one of tends of theories for why the Nasca people made such giant lines in high plateaus. Still, nothing stands out among them all. I am curious to learn more about any progress on these Nasca lines.
Monkey
Eagle
Astronaut
The way they created was by removing gravels and rocks from the ground, thus exposing the white- or ivory-colored underground dirt.

To get to Nasca, we took a Cruz del Sur, a bus liner that covers from Colombia to Brazil in South America. The price we paid for the tour included a VIP seating in the bus and it was the first class of the bus in the lower level of the double-decked bus. The leather-seats were wide and comfortable; Wi-Fi was working well; They even served a meal and a drink. Wow! I felt I could take a bus tour along the South American countries with Cruz del Sur. It was a memorable experience.


Many people travel to Nasca over two days. This two-day trip includes a visit to Paracas National Park and to an island. Also, they stop over in Ica, which is a Peruvian version of Napa Valley. But we chose to visit Nasca Lines in one day. So we took the bus to Paracas and was taken to the nearby Pisco Airport where we took the Sesna plane to fly to Nasca. The total round trip flying time was approximately 90 minutes, compared to 30 minutes if you fly out of Nasca Airport. Ironically, the two-day trip would have been cheaper without an overnight sleep.

To be continued in Part II that covers Cusco and Machu Picchu, Puno and Lake Titicaca, Colca Canyon and Arequipa.